Stonesetting with Brad Simon

Bench Jewelers Tools Using Burs

While using burs you should use a steady, slow to medium speed.  Flex-shafts can operate at speeds up to 14,000 rpm, some even faster.  Burs and drills should not approach this speed while cutting metal (carbide and diamond tipped burs and drills are the exception to this).  You should operate the flex-shaft at no more than medium speed while using steel burs and drills, and the larger the bur the slower the speed.  High speed steel burs are a description of the type of steel used and not indicative of the speed used to operate.

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Bench Jewelers Tools Gravers

When shaping gravers on a grinding wheel take your time.  Hurrying will only cause the graver to overheat and/or cutting edges to be misalign.

 

Always grind a graver with the cutting edge of the graver making first contact.  As a grinding wheel grinds away metal heat is generated.  If the wheel grinds from the heavy portion of the graver first, heat is generated towards the tip.   By grinding the cutting edge first, heat is generated away from the thin tip of the graver.  The difference is minimal; however, when shaping gravers every little bit helps.

For articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStoneSetting.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, Stone Setters, and Goldsmiths

Bench Jewelers Setting Melee in a Fishtail Style

Setting diamonds in platinum jewelry is a true mark of craftsmanship for Bench Jewelers. This unique diamond setting style provides an elegant wedding ring set.

Bench Magazine is written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers.

Bezel Setting Bench Jewelers Tools

When trimming the edge of a bezel use a flat graver.  Make certain the cutting edge of the graver is perpendicular to the stone.  If the cutting edge is held at an angle less than 90 degrees it will have a tendency to cut in toward the stone possibly chipping or abrading it.  By keeping the cutting edge of the graver at a 90 degree angle will allow it to glide smoothly around the bezel.

A flat graver can be used to burnish the bezel.  Place the graver point on the bezel as you would if cutting.  However, pull backwards on the graver to burnish the metal, rather than pushing forward on it.

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, making and repairing jewelry.

Bench Jewelers Pre-Cut Bright Cut Diamond Setting

By pre-cutting the bright cut Bench Jewelers can avoid chipping the diamonds they are setting in jewelry. Bench Jewelers tools shown. 

eBench is the leading newsletter for Bench Jewelers.

Setting Channel Set Anniversary Bands

When setting channel set anniversary bands, use pliers with one half-round jaw and one flat jaw (the kind used to bend ring shanks while sizing).  Place the half-round jaw in the finger hole of the ring, and the flat jaw on the top of the channel.  With the flat jaw of the pliers you can smoothly squeeze down the channel onto the stones, and the half-round jaw will not mar or nick the inside of the ring.

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Cutting Azures

After drilling the holes, turn the jewelry over and clean up the back of the plate.  If the plate is thin, all you can do is scrape away any burs and polish with a bristle brush.  If the plate is thick enough, you need to cut away some of the metal surrounding the holes.  These cuts are called azures. 

The easiest method to cut an azure is to taper the hole using a bud or cone bur.  Then polish the taper with a hard felt point in your flex-shaft.

On finer jewelry, you will want to cut a square or triangle shaped azure.  The results look like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry.  To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur.  Then, using a hart bur held sideways cut your corners in each hole.  Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal between the corners.  Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts.

For articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStoneSetting.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, Stone Setters, and Goldsmiths

Bench Jewelers Tools Using Gravers

Bench Jewelers love tools and one of the most important for stonesetting is gravers. How to sharpen your gravers to set stones in jewelry. 

Bench Jewelers Network provides many articles and videos for Bench Jewelers.

Setting Diamonds into thin Jewelry

Before bead setting stones, properly measure the thickness of your metal.  At a minimum, the metal should be as thick as the distance between the girdle and the culet.  If the metal is too thin, you will not have enough metal to get a good bead.

 

If the metal is particularly thin, use a setting bur that is slightly dull.  Then, rather than cutting the metal away cleanly, it will push some of the metal down.  This metal will bulge down below the plate supporting the stone.

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, making and repairing jewelry.

Bench Jewelers Setting Diamonds Bead and Bright Cutting

Pave Setting small diamonds using bead and bright cut is challenging for Bench Jewelers.  Learn how to improve your skills.

Bench Jewelers Television provides many training videos for Bench Jewelers.